Les Soldes, Photo Museum, and Friends

Wednesday June 26, was the warmest day we have had so far in Paris- about 20C and no rain.  It was the first day of the annual legislated sales in Paris, so we went shopping.  It's a real slice of Paris life, as people take time off work and the stores are buzzy.  Most prices are reduced 30-40% in the initial days of the sales, with deeper discounts coming as the month wears on.

Toby and Shirley at Zadig and Voltaire (I got the top)

We stayed in the 6th, walking down Saint-Germain and then Rue de Cherche Midi.  Alain bought a pair of glass frames at Lafont.

Alain with his new glasses frames (at Lafont)

We stopped for a late lunch at Cuisine de Bar again and Alain had the chicken tartine, while Shirley and I shared a crayfish and guacamole tartine.

Alain with Poulet tartine

Crayfish and guacamole

We stopped next door for an apple tarte at Polaine.  We passed some beautiful flower stores along the way.

Flower store

We made our way to Palais Royal on the right bank, where we were to meet our friend Vicky.  Shirley bought a scarf, but as Vicky's plane had arrived late, we planned a later rendezvous at a bar.

Shirley in front of Palais Royal

After a visit to Epice, we met our friend Vicky (from Ottawa) who is in Paris for a few days.  We had a drink in the wonderful Lennox Hotel Bar on l'universite.  It was quiet, with great jazz photos and murals on the wall.

Apero at Hotel Lennox Bar

We then went down the street and had a delightful dinner at the Bistro Alain and I had eaten at the other day, "Au 35" at 35 Rue Jacob.

Vicky, Shirley, Allan and Toby

Lamb for Shirley

Pistachio Creme Brule for dessert

After dinner, Shirley, Alain and I decided to see Sophie Coppola's new film The Bling Ring.  Very edgy, and the cast was excellent.

Thursday June 27 started with pouring rain and it was cool again.  However, the sun eventually came out and it didn't rain again during the day.  We crossed the Seine on the way to the Maison Europeenne de la Photographie (MEP) which opened in 1996 and is housed in a 1703 building that has been owned by the City of Paris since 1914.

Crossing the Seine with a view of Notre Dame

There were four exhibits that had just started on June 26.  Our favourite was a wonderful show of 70 photos by Costa-Gavras (b. 1933), the film director (e.g. Z, Missing) who is also an excellent photographer.  There were a a number of travel photos, family and other folks from the political and film world.  There were also a number  of photos from various political engagements (e.g. Paris 1968 and other demonstrations).  The photographs were excellent and engaging- the first public exposure of these works.

                                                                       Zen Garden in front of MEP

Costa-Gravas Self Portrait 2003

Allende 1971

Bord de Mer 1994

Romy Schneider and Yves Montand  Paris 1979

Le mur de Berlin 1990

House and tomb of Trotsky  Mexico City 1971

The second exhibit was entitled "A Collector's Eye" and featured a number of photographs collected by Serge Aboukrat, a Parisian gallery owner and collector.  There were a lot of pictures by Philippe Halsman (1906-1979), which we really enjoyed--- especially the series of famous people jumping.

Wall of Stars

Duke and Duchess of Windsor jumping

 Iconic Marilyn photo

Marilyn Monroe jumping

Nixon jumping

There were also a number of hand-made New Years Cards created by Halsman- all very clever.

New Years Card

The third exhibit featured pictures by Ferrante Ferranti (b. 1960) called "Itinerrances".  He is a French photographer and architect, born in Algeria. The exhibit featured both black and white and colour photos.  His composition and use of light was amazing.

Musee Archeologique Naples 1999

St. Peter's Basilica Rome 2009

Ekaterinburg 2010

Soviet Statues Russia 2010

The last exhibit we saw was a series of sculptures by Mimmo Paladino (b. 1948) alongside photographs of Antonio Biasiucci (b. 1961).

Sculpture by Paladino

Homage to his father- Paladino

After the photography exhibits, we wandered in the Marais and returned to a delightful store called Anaim, where I made some purchases.

Shirley trying things on

Toby with dress

We then met our friends Vicky and David (from Ottawa) for lunch at a cafe near the Picasso Museum (which is still under renovations).  The sun came out and it was lovely eating outside.  David and Vicky had just visited our favourite scarf store, Epice, and made some purchases.

David with new scarf from Epice

Shirley, Vicky, Toby, Alain and David

Vicky's goat cheese salad

Alain's salmon tartine

Shirley with her new Epice scarf

Shirley and Vicky with her new scarf and amazing new shoes

We then headed out in separate directions.  We passed the Swedish Cultural Centre which had Double Dribble II by Anne Thulin in the courtyard.

Double Dribble II

Our next stop was a wonderful exhibit on the singer, Charles Trenet, at the Galerie des Bibliotheques on Rue Mahler.

Le Fou Chantant-- Charles Trenet

Charles Trenet (1913-2001) was unique in that he wrote all his songs and would only perform work that he had written.  Three of his best known pieces are Boum (recently played in the James Bond movie Skyfall) , La Mer (made famous in Engish by Bobby Darin- Beyond the Sea) and Que Reste-t-il de nos amours ( in English- I Wish you Love first recorded in English by Keely Smith in 1957 and the by Nat King Cole and Frank Sinatra, among others).

A young Trenet

 With Gilbert Becaud, at the Olympia in 1955

Poster for La Mer (1946)

Trenet with Josephine Baker at L'Olympia 1959

Trenet's hat

Trenet jumping in front of Eiffel Tower  1987

Poster for last Trenet concert at Salle Pleyel in 1999

There were many music listening stations throughout the exhibit all playing Trenet songs or covers of his songs by many international artists.  As well, there were films of him singing in concert.  Trenet had incredible timing, jazz chops and originality.  There were many people singing along to the tunes at the exhibit.  He had an interesting life, playing for French POW's in Germany (quite controversial) during the war. He was also accused of being Jewish by the far right.  In response, he submitted a detailed family tree to prove otherwise (again controversial).

 His music is wonderful and the compilation of photos, letters and music was exceptional.  The French hold their singers and musicians in high regard.

We then stopped to pick up some apple cake at Sacha's.

Alain exiting Sacha Finkelsztajn's on Rue des Rosier

Our second last stop for the day was a "cocktail"at Epice, the scarf store at the Palais Royal gardens.  One of the designers (both Danish, but one lives in Paris) was supposed to have been there, but wasn't well, so her son came.  Lots of amazing scarves.  As we left, we received a beautiful mesh sac with their designs.

Beautiful scarves- each design is done in multiple colours

More scarves

Our final stop before heading back to the apartment was Les Deux Magots where we had coca-colas (always served with lemon) and people-watched.  Then back to the apartment, where Shirley made us a lovely pasta dinner.  

Shirley and Toby

Alain and Toby

A full day in Paris!