Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Union Demonstrations

Another exciting day in Istanbul.  In the early hours of Tuesday morning June 4, the police again clashed with protesters, using water cannons and tear gas in an area between Taksim square and a nearby stadium.   For folks asking about our safety, we are fine.  Our apartment is near Istiklal Street, the pedestrian street, which runs north to Taksim Square.  We are close to about the half way mark of Istiklal Street but usually walk south towards the water.  However, we often see groups of demonstrators meeting and walking towards Taksim Square.

Today, we first went to the fish street near us and got some sea bream and sea bass for dinner.

Our fish came from this fish stand

After we dropped the fish back at the apartment, we headed south on Istiklal Street running into groups of public sector union folk who were meeting in small groups (some up to a few hundred though) and walking up to Taksim Square for a big solidarity demonstration.  For the first time, we saw people over 25 years old joining the protests.  The Kesk trade union, which represents about 240,000 workers  is on a two day strike against what they are calling "state terror".  Apparently, another union, Disk, will join the demos on Wednesday.

Groups of unionists gathering

Getting ready to march to Taksim Square

Ready to go

Another small group gathers on Istiklal Street

Where Istiklal turns into Galipdede Street 

This grouping was fairly large (we are heading down this street, the unionists heading north).

We walked down to the Galata bridge and took the tram (LRT) to the Sultanhamet stop near all the major attractions of old Istanbul (still on the European side).  We first went into the Blue Mosque.  We were both dressed appropriately this time and could enter.  We really liked the light and the beautiful Iznik tiles.  It was very soothing.  Approximately 21,000 mostly blue and green tiles were used to decorate the Mosque in traditional Ottoman patterns of lilies, tulips and carnations.

Ceiling of Blue Mosque

Stained glass and more tiles

Tile detail

Very light and airy and gorgeous colour

Another view of the minarets of the Blue Mosque

We then visited the Mosaic Museum.  In 1933, excavators discovered a mosaic pavement not too far from the Blue Mosque.  It was identified as a section of the courtyard of Constantine's Imperial palace.  The mosaic flooring was created by the most gifted craftsman of the era.  Archaeologists have estimated that the size of the courtyard was about 1872 square metres, requiring a total of 80 million pieces of lime, glass and terra cotta.  While they have not been specifically dated, the assumption is that they were crafted during the reign of Constantine or Justinian.  The mosaics are absent of religious themes and instead focus on hunting scenes and scenes from mythology.  The Austrian government has helped Turkey with preserving and assembling these amazing mosaics.

Riding a dromedary

Poor rabbit

Leopard attacking a Stag

Monkey

Mounted huntsman in oriental garb

 We then went to the Hagia Sophia (Divine Wisdom),  which was dedicated in 537 by Emperor Justinian.  It was topped by the largest dome in the world until St. Peter's was built in Rome in 1590.  The Hagia Sophia was for almost 1000 years, the largest Christian Church in the world.  In 1453, when Mehmet II conquered Constantinople, he kept the Church, but added minarets and other Islamic features.  It functioned for five centuries as the chief Mosque of the Ottoman Empire.  Mosaics and frescoes were covered up during this time.

In 1935, Ataturk converted the Hagia Sophia from a mosque to a museum.  Mosaics and icons that were previously whitewashed were rediscovered and restored.  It is an amazing building with a fascinating history.

Outside of Hagia Sophia

An Angel on the ceiling

Mosaic of Constantine presenting a model of his new city and
 Justinian presenting a model of the Hagia Sophia to the Virgin Mary

Calligraphy and ceilings

Another Ceiling photo

The "pulpit" when it was a Mosque

 Different types of marble

 Detail in Door

 One of my favourite parts- the lattice work on the top of the columns

Ceiling detail

View from the second level

Judgement Day- Christ between Virgin Mary and John the Baptist

The Virgin and Child: Emperor Johannes Komnenos and Empress Irene and their son Alexios

Gorgeous Byzantine mosaics

After that amazing visit, we walked over to the Grand Bazaar for some Turkish tea and an amazing chocolate mosaic desert.

Serving coffee and tea since 1909

Chocolate mosaic desert

Great coffee and tea shop in the Bazaar

Alain and Toby

We walked around a bit-- the rugs are totally overwhelming.  We wouldn't know where to start.  There was one corner  of the Bazaar with some great modern designs.

Modern design at Dhoku.

We took the tram back to the harbour and then walked up to the apartment for a great fish dinner and an earlier opportunity to finish this blog.