Friday 31 May 2013

Topkapi Palace

On Friday May 31, I woke up at 4:30 a.m. with the call to prayer, but managed to fall back to sleep.  Alain slept through and we got up at around 10:00 a.m. (still getting over jet lag).  After breakfast, we walked down Istiklal Street ( the Pedestrian street) and continued across the Galata bridge to the Old part of European Istanbul.  It was quite warm- about 26C and sunny.

On Istiklal Steet we passed Saint Anthony Catholic Church which was open to the public today.
Saint Anthony Catholic Church 1906-12
Lots of cats in Istanbul-- These two were well fed
Just before the Galata bridge, we passed a construction area--- it didn't stop people from enjoying their tea and snacks.
Just before the Galata bridge
We decided that we would spend the afternoon visiting the Topkapi Palace, one of the must-sees in Istanbul.  We got the audio guide in English and it was helpful that many of the signs were in English as well as Turkish.  The Topkapi Palace was constructed by Fatih Sultan Mehmet (Mehmet the Conqueror) in 1478.  It was used as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire and was the residence of the Sultans for 380 years.  In 1924, under Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the Palace was opened as a museum.  We learned that one was extremely lucky if one could get into the school at the Palace where a loyal bureaucracy was trained.

The entrance to the palace is via the Imperial Gate, decorated with niches that were used to display the severed heads of rebels and criminals.  The gate leads into a series of four Courts that become more private the deeper into the complex one goes.  The First Court was public and housed a hospital and dormitories for the palace guards.

The entrance to Topkapi Palace
Map of the Ottoman Empire
Beautiful ceiling
A Second Court, a semi-public space was where the business of running the empire was carried out.  This was where the Imperial Council sat, overlooking gardens landscaped with cypresses and rose  bushes.  Nearby are kitchen buildings which catered for up to 5000 inhabitants of the palace.  There is then the Gate of Felicity which leads into the Third Court- the Sultan's private domain.  There was also a Hall of the Campaign Pages whose task was to look after the royal wardrobe.

Ceiling of the Imperial Council where decisions were made
Their is an rotating exhibit of beautiful robes worn by the Sultans, one was 550 years old and worn by Mehmet II, who conquered Constantinople.

Kaftan
Kaftan worn by Mehmet II   (this one reminded me of the  Big Suit worn by David Byrne of Talking Heads)
Kaftan with many symbols
Gorgeous trousers
We also visited the Imperial Treasury which housed items made for the palace by a team of court artisans, which at its height numbered over 600.  It is amazing to see items like the Topkapi Dagger with three huge emeralds.  There was a pair of gold candlesticks weighing over 100 kilograms!  We could not take pictures, so I had to get  the following picture of the Spoonmaker's Diamond- 86 carats- a beautiful pear shaped diamond, the 4th largest in the world and the Topkapi Dagger, from the internet.

The Spoonmaker's diamond

Topkapi dagger with three large emeralds
Visiting Topkapi Palace reminded us of the 1964 film with Melina Mercouri and Peter Ustinov.
Add caption
There was also a separate Chamber of the Sacred Relics-- again no pictures, but two of the items were Moses's staff which he apparently used to part the Red Sea, and a sword belonging to Muhammed.  Just amazing!

The final Fourth Court is a garden with terraces stepping down towards a point that overlooks the Golden Horn.  The views of the Bosphorus are amazing.  We also visited the Baghdad Kiosk with beautiful mother of pearl furniture.
View from Topkapi of the Bosphorus
Alain in foreground near Terrace Mosque
View of the Bosphorus
 Terrace kiosk from the late 17th century, with view of rose garden
Alain on a lion in 4th Court area
Garden and pavilions
Mother of Pearl wardrobe doors
The circumcision room, dating from 1640, which is rarely opened to the public. was open today- beautiful stained glass windows and tiles.
Circumcision room
More tiles outside Revan Kiosk 1633-36
There was also a chamber full of amazing clocks and watches.  I managed to take a picture of some pocket watches.
Room full of clocks and watches
We finished our visit to Topkapi after 5:00 p.m. and then stopped on the way back down to the water for a flatbread with lamb and some turkish tea.  All very tasty, especially since we hadn't eaten since a late breakfast.
Alain and flatbread with lamb and Turkish tea

We stopped at the Spice Bazaar again for some treats.  The Spice Bazaar was constructed between 1597-1664 on the order of Safiye Sultan, wife of Ottoman Sultan Murat the 3rd.  We bought some Turkish sheep cheese, turkish delight, baklava, and cherries.  We then purchased some fish on the "fish" street near our apartment before heading back for a very late dinner.
Turkish delight and other goodies



Teas
More tea
Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi coffee where Alain got his Turkish coffee yesterday- over 141 years old
We thought we'd post some pictures of our apartment.  Here is the building (we are on the first floor (aka second floor in Canada) with the windows on the street (mushroom coloured paint).
Our apartment building
Alain at the table near the bed
kitchen and sofa
Bathroom
All very clean and compact.  It was another great day in Istanbul.  Tomorrow we plan to explore our neighbourhood and the Galata area nearby.




1 comment:

  1. Wow! Love the blog. Istanbul looks fantastic. If you see some nice saffron (and it is not too too crazy expensive) buy me a little if you have a chance and I shall reimburse you.

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